we have nails at home! (my non-professional tips for doing your own gelx nails)
The last time I was at a nail salon, I walked out with peeling cuticles, thin nail plates and out about $100. This weird and unhealthy obsession I had developed with getting a new nail set every 2 weeks caused me to spend thousands of dollars and left me with literally weak/brittle nails.
Getting your nails done, as religiously as I used to, was like paying rent — it was overpriced, had no ROI (return on investment) and behaviorally routine… like, without it being done, it felt like trouble.
I finally decided one day that I would rather pay $200 for a years worth of nail supplies / tools once that I can use myself multiple times than pay $60-100 every 2 weeks for a different nail design, free water and the inevitable awkwardness that sometimes comes with nail salons (like, why does it feel like we all secretly hate each other when we’re in there?) The only real difference between me and the nail salon was a license; but even then, if the only customer entering my salon would be me / myself / and I, then who was I to let rules keep me from having fun? (and saving me a f*ck ton of money).
This nail set I recently did for my birthday confirmed for me 2 things:
I’m never going to the nail salons again.
I am extremely talented and brilliant. (joke)
Let’s talk about how I did it + tips I have with doing your own (gelx) nails at home.
(Warning: I’m not a professional. I’m merely a girl who just loves doing her nails and saving money.)
EVERYTHING I USE, LINKED HERE FROM AMAZON*
(* affiliate link)
NAIL PREP:
Prepping the nails has to be top priority. Without proper prep, GOOD F*CKING LUCK! The last thing you want is to spend hours doing your nails, only for them to pop off within 24 hours (I would know, lol).
I like to clean my cuticles with an electrical nail drill. This is NOT recommended unless you’re a pro or just know your way around a nail drill through experience. Using a cuticle remover works, too. Just make sure that at the very least your cuticles are pushed back.
Nail dehydrators work to remove excess oil off the surface of your nails. Gel adheres best to a clean and dry* surface. After cuticle prep, go in with your nail dehydrator.
* I actually don’t use a nail dehydrator. Since my nails are brittle, I like using this Nail-Aid Keratin polish as a base coat. It provides a nice protective layer for my natural nails while also providing benefits. This dries a bit sticky, which I have found no problems adhering with gel. Use at your own discretion, though. A dry nail is always best.
I love using this cuticle removing tool after having drilled / pushed back my dry cuticles. It’s easier (and in my opinion) less scary than those tiny scissors. A clean cuticle is so satisfying.
A peel off base coat is the same way the creation of the Dirty Martini can easily be considered as one of God’s greatest gifts to man. This helps remove the nails so easily once you’re ready to pop ‘em off. A peel off base coat, coupled with either a cuticle oil or nail removal solution of some sort, makes for the perfect combination that helps getting your nails off with 0 pain and 0 damage. Before I apply my nail tips, I love a thin layer of Beetles peel off base coat cured underneath.
NAIL APPLICATION:
There’s different ways of applying nails, but my favorite way is with gel glue. Whenever I use nail glue, I physically cringe just thinking about the removal process. I’m sure doing the classic “soak-in-warm-soapy-water-with-alcohol” works for some, but for some reason, there is 0 budge on my end. I just end up ripping them off with my teeth. Sad, I know.
I love taking a nail drill and “scuffing” the area of the nail that’s going to adhere to my natural nail. Like I mentioned before, gel HATES a smooth and slippery surface, so texture is great for adherence and retention.
For full cover nails, I love the brand APEX on Amazon or ASP at Sallys Beauty. Both are durable, don’t bend and have a sculpted shape so not much shaping / filing needed.
You can decide to apply the nail close to your cuticle*, or, what I like to do is leave a 1/2” space between my cuticle and the nail. This space will be filled with builder gel, just to create a more durable set.
*SKIP the orange text bullets if you apply the nail close to your cuticle and continue reading.
the orange text is only if you decide to try the technique of leaving 1/2” space from cuticle. you will not need a builder gel, but can decide to use one anyways if you so choose.
Here’s a visual example of what I’m talking about:
Applying the fake nail 1/2” above the cuticle and leave space. This space will be filled when applying builder gel on top.
Always apply the nail slowly at a 45 degree angle to prevent air bubbles. There’s tons of videos out there that can teach you how to apply gelx nails properly. I recommend watching those.
To ensure a seamless blend, I like taking my nail drill and drilling down the bottom of the fake nail (the part nearest to my cuticle). By filing this down, it prevents a bump from showing when you apply your builder gel on top and make the fake nail blend seamlessly with your natural nail. This isn’t a recommended technique, but something I do for aesthetic purposes. You can also just use a nail file.
Traditionally, salons will apply the fake nail close to the cuticle and still take a nail drill to file down the part closest to the cuticle to make it natural.
After applying the nail, I’ll buff and use nail polish remover to seal the cuticle. If you don’t know WTF I’m talking about with “sealing the cuticle,” watch this video.
The builder gel I mentioned above is also in the same list as the peel off base coat for being one of the greatest inventions of all time. It’s my favorite way to really create a sturdy nail. After applying the fake nail and leaving 1/2” space from the cuticle, I’ll apply a thin layer of builder gel for my slip layer, then build my apex with the builder gel. Again, watch videos on how to apply builder gel. That same technique is translated here.
Traditionally, builder gel is not needed when doing gelx nails.
SHAPING NAILS:
It’s always a great hack to get fake nails you don’t need to do much shaping with; that’s why I recommend APEX or APS (or press on nails so you can skip yourself the trouble and this whole blog post). When it comes to cutting them down and shaping, it’s all about practice. I can’t recommend much but to “just keep working on it,” (easier said than done, I know); however, I’ll give you some tidbits.
Fresh nail files work the best. You don’t need to use them like they’re disposable, but if you find your nail filing isn’t sharp, you may need to get a new one. Buy a pack from Amazon and call it a day.
A large nail cutter works better with fake nails vs. your everyday nail cutter from a local gas station. The cleaner the cut, the less shaping you’ll need to do.
Square shapes, in my opinion, are much harder to shape than stiletto or almond. Here’s a helpful video on how to shape square nails.
File in one direction, not back and forth. I keep my finger straight up, take my nail file and file towards myself.
NAIL ART / DESIGN:
This is the best part of doing your own nails because you can change your mind without feeling bad and request a pretty design without the worry of having to pay for EACH. F*CKING. NAIL.
My favorite gel polish (and what I used on my birthday nails) was the GAOY JELLY NUDE PINK GEL POLISH. Sh*t is so good in quality and shades, especially if you’re a fan of OPI’s bubble bath or funny bunny.
Invest in rhinestone glue so your gems aren’t popping off. I used to believe I could just apply a layer of top coat gel polish then apply the gems, but this didn’t keep the gems in place for long.
A UV lamp that’s easy to maneuver is perfect for nail art because you can easily cure one nail at a time without moving an inch.
For inspiration, I always refer to Pinterest or TikTok. Or, my own brain.
I will admit that it takes me 5-6 hours anytime I do an artsy and elaborate set, so be prepared for that. But I honestly think that a free nail session in my home with Sex and The City on replay, glass of pinot on my right and 0 awkward interactions involved, I will take a 6 hour nail appointment at the Salon of Nikki anyday.
Let me know if you ever do try your own nails at home — even if you hate them. Every experience is valid because the more practice you get, the more money you’ll save.
What a great f*cking return on investment, don’t you think?
See you in the next post… x
with love,